Member Model: Andris’ ​Excalibur

Andris started construction of this model with a parts drawing and, having cut out the parts, checked them against the drawing.

The drawing was tacked onto a ¾” thick building board, and the frames were then tacked in place, using a square to ensure that the frames were vertical.

2” thick Dow foam insulation was roughly shaped to fit in between the bow frames for the bottom stringers and keel were glued into position while the frames were still tacked in place, along with the bottom sheeting. Once dry they were cut free from the building board. The boat stand was built and shear pieces (the stringers along the corner between the side and deck) glued in place. Work also started on installing the motor mounts, motor, transom hardware and drive shaft. flotation.

The bottom stringers and keel were glued into position while the frames were still tacked in place, along with the bottom sheeting. Once dry they were cut free from the building board. The boat stand was built and shear pieces (the stringers along the corner between the side and deck) glued in place. Work also started on installing the motor mounts, motor, transom hardware and drive shaft.

Transom hardware mounted

Flotation foam was glued in place and side sheeting installed. Next step was to install the motor and align the driveline

The deck was glued in place with slow setting epoxy, and held in place with clothes pegs and masking tape. After that, the deck was sanded and the deck hatch fitted into position.

2 strakes and 1 spray rail were installed on either side of the hull bottom. To construct the strakes I ripped pine strips ¼” x ¼” on the table saw, tack glued the strip to a flat building board, and sanded to a 30° angle and then cut free from the building board. The position of the strakes was marked on the hull bottom with a pencil, and glued in position with thin CA glue. The strakes had to be faired to the hull bottom with thickened epoxy glue and sanded smooth. One spray rail was installed on the edge of each chine to prevent water climbing up the side of the boat. The two strakes mounted on the hull bottom are used to assist the hull to lift out of the water, and have the boat track properly at planing speed.

The transom with all holes drilled for hardware. To finish wooden hulls Andris seals with 3 coats of finishing resin, then primes and paints with Krylon paints.

On this model, all of the hardware, except for the props and the driveshaft were scratchbuilt. Some parts were made from KS aluminum sheet stock purchased from hobby shops, and some from aluminum angle used for brackets was bought from Metal Supermarkets. On future models, the hardware would be bought ready made – it’s now so cheap.

The finished model in the water. For the choice of motor and props, mid-range models would be selected and alternatives tried to get the best out of the boat. Andris has also tried a gear drive between motor and shaft on other boats.